Day 23 - January 26, 2008 - Cruising the Chilean Fjords

Fjords photos
Debbie and Margie were up late working on the puzzle, but had to pack it in before finishing. It was a good one with a lot of houses. We had to be up early this morning for our Circumnavigators Event in the Horizon Lounge at 7:45am. Since it was originally scheduled for Deck 7 Forward with a note to bring our appetites and binoculars, we weren't sure what to expect or how to dress. We were in the fjords overnight and were doing a lot of cornering. Same this morning, we were in a tight spot or 2 very early. Even though it was really cold out this morning we spent our time out on the balcony watching. We saw a pair of small penguins, loads of Austral sea lions, an Imperial cormorant, albatrosses, and most impressively STEAMER DUCKS! These little ducks are so funny. They just look like normal small ducks bobbing around on the sea water, which is pretty odd in itself really. Then we the ship gets near they start spinning their wings (there are 2 kinds but one is flightless) and they "steam" along kicking up the water with their wings. They pinwheel their arms like swimming or it resembles a paddlewheel boat, which is how they got their name. On to the Special Event, there was a crowd waiting for the doors to open. One guesses because we were 'teased' with the promise of gifts for our Ushuaia Special Event. Our gifts were one size fits all Jailbird old-timey striped prison costumes. They said we can wear them when we have our cocktail party at the Maritime Museum in Ushuaia which is in an old prison. Hmmm. Anyway, our original invitations said this party was called the "wreck from the deck". It was supposed to be timed to view the wreck of the Santa Leonora of the old Grace Line. This is the wreck that started the naming convention of port and starboard. The story goes that the Captain and the Pilot were disagreeing about which way to turn in the Smith Channel (where we woke up this AM) and finally the Captain threw up his hands and said all right, all right. The crew turned the ship right and it ran aground and here it sits yet. Now everyone is only to say port and starboard to avoid confusion. So, when the doors opened we all claimed tables set with a tray of tiny croissants and 3 napkins and coffee cups each. Waiters came around offering trays with big bready pretzels on them in the shape of either anchors or liferings. No one knew or no one told us which side the wreck would be on. From inside we could hear Terry Breen speaking outside, we went outside to hear her because no one was talking to us inside. We got coffee or hot tea. Then we got the jailhouse costumes. David Guy modeled, what a ham! Then several of us asked Captain Romeo, who was out on the back deck, which said the wreck was on and he told us the port side. Immediately there were a hundred people jammed in about 12 linear feet of viewing space back there. Margie got separated and stayed, then went up to Deck 12 alone. But, Debbie and Clay and several others scurried back up to their port side balconies to get unrestricted viewing of the wreck. It was a wreck. We had breakfast outside at LaVeranda and took in the spectacular views. Then because it is hard to hear Terry Breen's commentary in the public areas of the outside decks, we went to the Observation Lounge. While we were there we exited the Smith Channel and past an island with a Lighthouse Station on it. It was a whole little complex there with housing, weather station, etc. It looked like a very remote place to work and live! It is hard to imagine how isolated it would seem it foul weather, which is typical here. Today we could see all the way across this wide part of the Straits of Magellan to see the Darwin chain of mountains on Tierra del Fuego.
Our glorious and unseasonable weather continues to hold. We left the Smith Channel and reentered the Straits of Magellan by midmorning. We passed by a freighter ship heading in the opposite direction. Terry said it is rare for commercial shipping to use this channel, the Straits, because of wind and currents making it more treacherous than sailing around Cape Horn. Terry Breen has been marvelling about glaciers, landslides, coves, peaks, blue ice, etc. that she knew was there, but is seeing for the first time since the sun is so bright and the sky so clear. It is about 65F. It feels cooler in the wind and hotter in the sun. It is weird to feel the hot sun and see the snow capped hills. We had Rossini BBQ on the Pool Deck. That is grilled seafood, steaks, foie gras, etc. Don't remember if we told about riding the tender into Puerto Montt the other day with Chef Mike. He was going in to look for fresh fish. Margie and Debbie weren't too excited about that and told him so. Turns out that Mike also bought a bunch of local jam and marmalade as well as lots of fish. He has been serving it for the last few days. Day before yesterday, Margie had his Grilled Merluza Fillet in Compass Rose and she really liked it, and she doesn't usually eat fish, only shrimp. She apologized to Mike and told him that he bought and cooked some really good fish. He appreciated that. Debbie's still not having any.
Tomorrow we have another of our big pre-bookable excursions. Terry said that about 4-5pm today we will sail past the only Marine Park in Chile. That park is where we will spend our day tomorrow after we arrive in Punta Arenas. We will go back there by helicopter. She hopes to spot humpback whales from the ship this afternoon though. Pasted below is a description of our tour tomorrow.
RSSC
Transport: Helicopter and Local Transport
Duration: 8 Hours
Humpback Whale Sanctuary at the End of the World
PUN-6711 Adult: $1,629.00
This optional tour has to be pre-purchased and is not included in the regular tour program. If you have not already
pre-booked this optional shore excursion you may contact Regent Seven Seas Cruises' Reservations at 1 (800)
285-1835 to verify the current status of this program. Limited space may be available and should be booked via
reservations. You may also check with the Travel Concierge Manager upon embarkation to verify if this tour is still
available. RSSC reserves the right to withdraw this program if minimum participation requirements are not met.
A 100% cancellation penalty applies to overland programs cancelled within 60 days of departure.
The Humpback Whale, Megaptera Novaeangliae, was classified by German naturalist Borowski, meaning 'Big-Winged
New Englander', referring to the size of the whale's huge flippers and one of the first sightings of this species, off New
England.
The Humpback Whale is a widely distributed species, occurring seasonally in all oceans from the Arctic to the
Antarctic, with distinct populations located in virtually every sea. All populations of Humpback Whale undertake vast
migrations between breeding and feeding grounds, the most famous of which is probably made by the Hawaii
Humpbacks, who travel to the Bering Strait and Alaska's Glacier Bay every year to feed.
Humpbacks were taken on their migrations between their feeding and breeding grounds, as well as on these grounds.
Slower, more easily found and less scared than other rorquals, they became a prime target during the modern era of
whaling. Between 1900 and 1940, over 100,000 Humpbacks were taken in the Southern Hemisphere alone, with Northern
stocks already diminishing. By 1966, however, the species received full protection from commercial whaling, although
they are still threatened by entrapment in fishing nets. They were brought even further to the forefront of the public's mind
with the fourth installment of the Star Trek films: The Voyage Home.
Today you will have the chance of visiting the southernmost sanctuary for this species. First you will fly by helicopter for
approximately 30 minutes to Carlos III island, located on the Strait of Magellan, and south west of Punta Arenas. Carlos
III forms part of the newly created Marine Park, Francisco Coloane. This is the first Marine Park in Chile created in order
to protect the unique species that inhabit the area. Once there you will visit the small encampment that faces the ocean
to have a light breakfast. After breakfast prepare to observe whales, seabirds, and fur seals. There will be ample time to
take pictures and learn about these amazing animals. Lunch will be taken at the encampment.
After lunch continue your learning experience observing other species also present in Carlos III island. Expert naturalists
will provide in-depth explanations about animals and geography of the area. Return to the encampment to have tea.
Your helicopter will be waiting to transfer you back to the pier.
Please note: The helicopter flight is a transfer and not narrated by the pilot. This excursion is not recommended for
guests with walking difficulties. A distance of approximately 300 meters will be walked over grassy, uneven ground,
including approximately 50 steps, over a ramp with an incline. This tour is dependent upon favorable weather conditions
to operate.
Program includes:
* Sightseeing and transfers as per program
* Roundtrip charter helicopter flight by Eurocopter BO-105 (CC-CHK) or Aerospatiale AS-355 F1 (CC-CIN)
* A light breakfast, lunch and refreshments
Availability and prices of tours are subject to change.
We did spot humpback whales about 3:45pm! We were up in Observation Lounge early and saw several blows, but most exciting was an entire whale tail spotted by Debbie and Margie. We saw loads of sea lions again and a lot more penguins. We saw lots more petrels, albatrosses and shearwaters. Amazingly, we also passed a small sailboat. Debbie and Margie kept prowling Deck 6 hall to get another shot at their jigsaw puzzle, with no luck. But, they did manage to get a car, guide and driver scheduled with H. Stern in Rio de Janiero. At 7pm, Mariner stopped off the southernmost point of the continental Americas, Cape Froward. The sun was shining on it and the water was like glass in the Straits of Magellan. The temperature was 61F. Amazing. There is a big white cross on the point of land that is Cape Froward. It is the 3rd cross that has been erected on this spot over the years. This one is made of strong steel tubes. It is 72 feet tall and 32 feet across.
Tonight is Country Club Casual. We plan a quick meal and then a short DVD. Then, early to bed and early to rise for our big day tomorrow. After seeing the Carlos III island and Francisco Coloane Marine Park and all the wildlife from the ship, we are very excited about it. The forecast for Punta Arenas tomorrow is 62F and sunny. So, we are keeping our fingers crossed for another day just like today and a great outing. Today was spectacular!
Fjords photos