Day 25 - January 28, 2008 - cruising the Beagle Channel and rounding Cape Horn

Beagle Channel
We got an early start since we were to cruise Glacier Alley from 7:30 to 9am. We wanted to get good seats in the Observation Lounge to hear Terry Breen and also because no had yet told us on which side the tidewater glaciers would be appearing. Margie and Clay got there an hour early and if we had not, we would not have gotten window seats. Soon after passing the first glacier (and noticing that the starboard side was green and the port side was icy) we were told that all the named glaciers would be on the port side. Of course, this meant that had we been told last night, we could have slept in and watch in our jammies with room service from our own cabins. Instead here we were up and skipping breakfast to watch from the higher deck. No idea what is going on with this operation and keeping information like this from the passengers. They know. They know we want to know. So, what gives with the secrecy? Anyway, it was partly sunny and fairly warm today. About 60F. It was only 52F when we went to dinner in the evening. There is only one glacier left that touches seawater, a tidewater glacier. It is the Italian glacier. The glaciers are mostly named for countries. In order, we passed Spain, Germany, Romanche (named for a ship), Italy and Holland. It was a really beautiful sail with lots of waterfalls. Prinsendam appeared and tagged around and then passed behind us and lapped us on our port side and we had to come to a stop and wait for them to go on their way so we could view the tidewater glacier. There were beautiful beams of sunlight on the channel and on the blue ice of the glaciers. Stunning.
Debbie decided later to take a hot tub interlude. It was great and wish we had thought of getting in there sooner, like when we were aching from Machu Picchu.
We had lunch on the Pool Deck, Pizza and Pasta and Antipasta. Terry Breen was narrating as we continued past a shipwreck and Puerto Williams and Ushuaia. Captain Romeo warned us that there was a low pressure system with gale force winds off Cape Horn for this evening. It was hard to believe since it was still not all that cold, windy or rough. But, we were still in protected waters. Debbie and Margie continued with their positive thoughts of calm waters, but it was becoming increasingly clear that a whole lot of other people on board were cheering for a real, authentic Drake Passage Cape Horn crossing. The restaurants opened an hour early so that everyone could be done with dinner to view Cape Horn. Also, later they were battening down the ship for rough seas with gale force winds. Latitudes started a new Thai menu tonight and Debbie went to get us a reservation and they offered her tonight. So, we went tonight. It was OK, but no one had anything they really loved. We liked the first meal there better. Ludovic informed us that we missed the best menu, Chinese, which was between the first one and this one. Oh, well. Clay was also a little upset that there were Centolla crabs displayed outside Compass Rose because it was on the menu and he missed it. We skipped dessert to go up to the Observation Lounge since we did not know which side we would be crossing Cape Horn. There weren't 2 seats together anywhere in there, it was packed. About the time we were ready to pack it in since Terry was only speaking on TV, Observation Lounge and the outside decks, which were out of the question by this time, Captain Romeo came on and said the whole thing would be on the port side. So, we went back to our cabins. It was very rough and windy and blowing water. That was on the protected side! After we passed the lighthouse station and big Chilean flag on the back side of the island of Cabo de Hornos or Cape Horn, we went back in our cabin from the balcony. Things got weird. We were sitting there and there was a boiling, bubbling water noise. We looked around for it and found water in the sliding door track. But, there was not that kind of water blowing out there. Streaming into that track and the wind pushing through was bubbling. Aida was out in the hall and Clay got here. She said she would call it in, but she mopped it up and that seemed to be the end of it. As we rounded the island of Cape Horn, you could see the seas just churning and the wind blowing the sea mist sideways. The wind was about 50 miles per hour. Then just as we left the shelter of the island, Terry announced that the Captain had told her the winds had dropped and we could see that the seas calmed somewhat. Just like that. It was not calm or anything, but it was not as rough as it had been just a minute earlier. We rounded Cape Horn in fairly stormy seas! It was over in about 20 minutes. There is a big abstract sculpture of an albatross there behind the lighthouse station building and between it and the big Chilean flag. There is a poem inscribed out there to the those who lost their lives crossing the Horn. Terry read it and told stories about crossing the Horn as we sailed around the island. So, we've done it.
Beagle Channel